A strong vision and steady technological research have contributed to the Prato-based enterprise’s success thanks to ultra-thin anti-perforation textiles and to eco-friendly, high-tenacity uppers.
There are many ways to define the commitment shown by companies that decide to pay close attention not only to economic issues, but also to environmental safeguard. Rudi Priami, General Manager at Manifattura Pri.Ma.Tex , besides being a forward-thinking entrepreneur, is also a true innovator when it comes to cutting- edge textile fibres. Active collaboration with the customers so as to provide them with top-quality, exclusive, eco-friendly solutions: this is one of the missions pursued by the Tuscan firm, the only one in the world that carries out the whole process, from yarns’ spools up to the finished product.
When did this adventure begin?
“My professional career started back in 1977 as I was an employee in a large-sized, highly renowned company operating in the textile-footwear sector. I was 27. The firm featured two divisions and it produced mainly textiles and fitted carpets. I acted for 17 years as Italy Sales Manager, contributing, with determination and passion, to the soaring growth of the corporate turnover. As is often the case, after many years spent working in the same environment, I felt the need to forge my own path, hence the decision to choose a new professional journey, becoming self- employed. And I made the right call. One day, the manager of an enterprise I was representing, aware of my energy and of my desire to accomplish something important, came to me with a suggestion, that is, to establish a company with him: that was the starting point for Manifattura Pri.Ma.Tex. “Pri” stands for Priami,
“Ma” for Maiano, and “Tex” for textiles. After ten years together, we decided to go on our separate ways so as to, among other things, give more space to my son, Christian, who was acquiring more and more experience inside the firm. I took up the role as sole General Manager and, at that stage, I understood that the enterprise needed to turn its attention to a more technical context. Therefore, I eliminate, little by little, all the products for civil use. I have a health-oriented attitude, especially with regard to insoles. For me, this is a pivotal issue. Actually, customers encouraged me to focus my attention on textile perforation.”
Yours is a steady drive to the making of certified, cutting- edge yarns, for uppers as well. Is it correct?
“Exactly. More specifically, we refer to HT yarns, that is, high- tenacity polyesters. We use nylon and recycled yarn such as New Life, the best top-quality, eco-friendly textile fibre made with a sustainable process, with recycled plastic bottles. Furthermore, we can manufacture single-burred nylon threads that feature first-rate resistance properties. Let me give you just an example of our quality: when our products undergo abrasion tests (in full compliance with the EN388 regulation), we always aim for the highest levels. For a few specific articles, we can even provide a guarantee for 24,000 cycles, namely, a far superior parameter compared to the required standards.”
As for standards, when did your company get the GRS certification?
“We received the “Global Recycle Standard” about one year ago. This certification highlights the need to provide an environmental declaration verified by a third party so as to prove the presence of recycled materials in our products (both semi-finished and finished) as well as the compliance with well-defined social and environmental criteria. It was a long, complex endeavour, but we are very proud of the result.”
The GRS certification sets high-level standards. How do you deal with such restrictions?
“Several companies, in order to bypass the limits set by GRS, manufacture uppers bonded with a felt inter-lining. This type of process results in a marked decrease in breathability and lightness, and in a rise in the amount of heat generated while using the shoe. We, on the other hand, develop micro-perforated solutions in reactive polyurethane, thus guaranteeing the utmost breathability. More specifically, we have conceived a 3D fabric with two identical sides. Why? It would have been easier to combine a 3D, perforated fabric with the upper, and yet the resulting problems would have been numerous, including lower resilience and tensile strength. Such a compromise has never been acceptable. With our method, quality and texture are preserved, together with softness and smoothness, with the complete absence of wrinkles during the assembly phase of the shoe and with unparalleled lightness. In the safety footwear sector, we have achieved top-notch levels thanks to our high-tenacity polyesters.”
What is the difference between high-tenacity polyesters and nylon?
“Resistance-wise, the difference is huge. Once there were no alternatives to nylon, but today the situation is different. As in the case, for example, of a 3D lining weighing 280 grams and featuring a resistance level of approximately 600,000 cycles. And there is still the chance to do even better. After all, the regulation has a set a guaranteed standard of 51,200 cycles.”
With regard to this lining, what was the market feedback?
“Excellent. As a matter of fact, it was immediately chosen by a renowned sports footwear brand. Our 3D liners are unique. In addition to resistance, they guarantee a more effective breathability compared to other solutions currently available on the market.”
In order to manufacture top-quality products, technological research is of primary importance…
“Research and development are two pivotal factors to develop this type of solutions. We believe that quality always pays off, maybe in the long term but it does pay off.”
Let’s focus on your sustainability-oriented philosophy.
“An essential element for our company. We have recently developed a fully natural upper, entirely made in linen that, thanks to our expertise in terms of weaving and finishing, we can test according to the EN388 regulation. I think that our company is the only one worldwide able to perform that with a grain weighing only 180 grams. With this product, out of four certification levels concerning natural fibres, we have managed to achieve three. An outstanding result.”
How do you manage to achieve such results?
“We have machines purposefully designed for anti-perforation, both when it comes to heat setting, printing and appliqués, and for the bonding with reactive polyurethane. Thanks to the presence of an in-house laboratory, we are able to check and certificate all the outbound materials. Our strength lies also in four exclusive patents, including the one developed together with Diadora technical staff. We are the only ones that have managed to achieve a zero-level perforation with the breathability parameters set by Geox, that is, 2000 mg/cm2 per hour. We have also filed another patent for the perforation at 3 mm. This year we have devised an injection assembly insole – Strobel construction technique – featuring a thickness of 2,8 mm. An entirely flexible product. Last but not least, with regard to GRS, we have designed the traditional 4-mm insole, recycled and conductive, and the 4,5-mm version with metal insert, incredibly soft. Ours is truly a state-of-the-art technology.”
Rudi Priami, General Manager, displaying a Diadora model; the upper and insole are made with Pri.ma.tex technical fabrics