In a recent study on the footwear sector, Italy is confirmed to be the leader of the high range, but the prospects to return to pre-crisis levels expected this year are strongly affected by the conflict between Russia and Ukraine, with strong repercussions on the energy and raw materials costs and trade flows to these two countries. Being aware to be the excellence, however, is not enough. In times like these, rolling up your sleeves is not always enough because, in order to operate a machine, even if well oiled, choices that are sometimes difficult, sometimes simply unpopular, are necessary. During the latest edition of Lineapelle, Icli Sollini, owner of the namesake company on the market for over 50 years, told us about his perplexities about the dates’ choice for Lineapelle and concerns for the future.
Mr. Sollini, Lineapelle’s dates were brought forward. How did the show go? Was there really so little turnout?
“That’s an understatement. It was predictable, it was obvious. I said this way before the show, but no one wanted to give credit to my words. Lineapelle had to be scheduled at different times from. A big mistake of judgment has been made.”
Do you think it would have been better to hold it in March on the occasion of Mipel and Micam? Or directly in September?
“Ninth. I am talking about a fair that had to be held in later, let’s say around April, as logic requires. This type of event should be scheduled after sales and exhibitions by footwear companies, and in any case in times that also include planning in line with what is going to be produced. In February we presented the 2023 summer collections but we don’t even know what will happen a few months later. There is a great misalignment. In this period, no one’s allowed to commit any false steps. Instead, this time, they really tripped us.”
Did the show fail to meet all of your expectations?
“The purpose of this trade fair was not to meet our suppliers, as it actually happened. Don’t get me wrong: I am delighted to have met them and to have also been able to discuss with them, but I was expecting visits from customers – only very few dropped by. What is happening was not predictable, that’s true, but it underlines even more the wrong choice on the part of the organizing body. It wasn’t a brilliant choice.”
What will your next step be?
“We are always leading towards the future, with an eye to grasping new perspectives. Professionally, we are having an extraordinarily good time. This is undoubtedly positive. The problem is that everything happens in an extraordinarily crazy context: prices are skyrocketing and people are no longer able to quote even the simplest things.”
During this increasingly uncertain context raw materials are also lacking, is it true?
“After two years of pandemic, which certainly damaged the market, the Russia- Ukraine war began, which did nothing but prolong the state of uncertainty and trigger chain reactions: alongside the increase in raw materials, we are witnessing the beginning of speculation. The market keeps the head down striving to sell, but to whom? Obviously, if there are orders, it means that someone is buying. If the situation keeps on worsening, final consumers will be forced to lease to buy a pair of shoes. Seriously, not everyone will be able to afford the previous purchases. Furthermore, as for Russia, how many Italian productions are linked to this country? And to the Marche region alone? Inevitably, the entire European basin will suffer. Are we so sure that people are going to have fun again and buy shoes and bags as before? Everyone happy to have overcome the Covid? I’m not sure.”
In your opinion, what scenario lies ahead?
“What I see is the definition of two worlds: a world made of great economy, in the sense of saving, which probably no longer belongs to Europe but whose war will reign in other nations not necessarily close, but not even so far; and the high-end world with all its question marks. I don’t believe the big brands so much. I think that they cannot hold the footwear market alone as we have known it, much less keep such turnovers because, whatever people say, these volumes are unbeareable. Reflection will also be needed for the Maisons. There will be those who will be able to get on that train and live well, or even better, but how many will have to get off? I sincerely hope not to be among the latter.”
How are you getting prepared to face the next challenges?
“Strengthened by our know-how and knowledge of the market, I am implementing a policy of differentiation, trying to relocate, to expand, to create structures, to give life to everything that lets me be prepared, without neglecting the slightest detail and without neglect our mission towards our customers. This is basically the message of the fair. We are always there and we will still be there, despite everything and despite those who try to put a spoke in the wheel. We are here.”
Icli Sollini and the stand at the fair