Just as the right choice of tyres influences the performance of a car on different types of terrain and in different weather conditions, so too does the choice of soles for work footwear play a fundamental role in adapting to the specific needs of the worker and the environment in which he works. Since 2013, JV International has been the exclusive worldwide licensee chosen by Michelin to design, develop, manufacture and market soles for footwear dedicated to ‘people on the move’, taking advantage of the ground contact expertise established in the tyre industry.
The company has its headquarters in Italy, divided between Verona (R&D, Sales Department) and Como (Marketing, Communication, General Management), and three global branches: Hong Kong, China and North America; in recent years it has established partnerships with the most important players in the work&safety footwear market, including Bata Industrials, Bicap and Ergodyne.
We interviewed Ambrogio Merlo, Managing Director of JV International.
How did Michelin enter into the idea of collaborating with footwear partners?
“We initiated the idea when we presented the project to Michelin. We thought that, in synergy with the footwear industry, we could develop compounds and treads suited to the most diverse needs of the world of work and safety, adopting a unique business model: that is, developing customised soles in response to the specific performance and application needs of each client. We build exclusive soles, and every project is a custom project. We start with the functional brief of the product and gradually consider the desired performance, the type of shoe, the environment, the working conditions… The idea behind the collaboration was to introduce innovation in a traditionally static sector, and it is proving to be more solid every day: in these ten years of activity, we have completed over 700 projects, each one distinctive, according to the needs of the client.”
Thanks to your expertise, your service is not just limited to the supply of a great product, but expands to consulting and support to realise it to its full potential.
“Our soles by MICHELIN division focuses on sole design, but the collaborative and co-design approach is so ingrained in our DNA that we have developed another division, Jvi Engineering, which specialises in high- level consultancy for the world of soles, extending as far as production. It offers support to all those companies that do not have in-house expertise in the design and production of soles. This is our business model. Finally, there is JVI- Repair, the exclusive line of Michelin soles for shoe repair that includes heels, half soles, soles and slabs.”
Staying on the subject of expertise but getting into the specifics. The collaboration between Michelin JV International and the giant BATA Industrials has led to the creation of the Work and Safety STUR line of footwear, designed for intensive outdoor use in extreme weather conditions. What are the key touch points?
“The previous knowledge of Michelin in the field of tyre compounds greatly contributed to the design of the STUR range of soles. The functional brief called for specific performance in extremely cold environments, with ice, snow and mud, and it was therefore essential to ensure both foot protection and optimum grip. We used the experience of Michelin in developing snow tyre tread technology, the same used in the Japanese rally championship where the use of metal studs is banned, and this technology was adapted to the needs of the soles through structural modifications to the compounds and tread design. Thanks to this collaboration, we were able to achieve outstanding performance. Innovations that were indispensable for the STUR collection, but not only. The Trex 6326 Spikeless Traction Device, for example. Our US customer Ergodyne asked us to create overshoes for aircraft maintenance technicians, enabling them to walk on icy wings without the use of spikes or fibreglass, which could damage the wings. To achieve the required performance, we integrated two advanced technologies: a special rubber compound, and the innovative tread design, the only one of its kind in the industry. The integral rubber with which the final product is made has a chemical affinity with snow and ice crystals, a unique feature that allows us to avoid the use of inserts, meeting customer requirements and making the product ideal for outdoor and indoor use.”
Great attention is paid not only to safety but also to style, as in the Stelvio S3 HRO SRC, the Bicap innovation among Safety footwear.
“Aesthetics is now an essential factor in the evolution of footwear products, and in the work & safety sector the demand is increasingly for solutions that guarantee safety, but also comfort and design. With the Stelvio S3 HRO SRC, our designers and those at Bicap have worked hand in hand to produce a pleasing and distinctive design. The design flows as a whole from sole to upper and creates a coordinated and harmonious look. The exchange of ideas and expertise with Bicap has allowed us to combine attractive design with cutting-edge technological solutions, for a product that is not only functional but also attractive to look at and comfortable to wear, perfectly in line with market demand. Recently, the demand for environmentally friendly products has also begun to emerge.”
How do you respond to this demand?
“We have been on the path towards sustainability for some time. A commitment that extends far beyond the simple product and develops along two main lines. The first is the circular economy, with the aim of producing recyclable soles. In this area, we have developed a technology called ‘hybrid’, which incorporates different percentages of recycled material according to specific applications. The second concerns the use of biomaterials. These products replace all or part of petroleum-derived materials with bio-based products from an ecological and sustainable environment. Various compounds have resulted from this endeavour. To illustrate the complexity of the production of customised products, I can point out that the organisation currently uses 59 different vulcanised rubber compounds, each adapted to specific uses. Each year, five to six new compounds are developed to further improve performance.”
Given all these specific features and advantages, how is the addition of a Michelin sole reflected in the price of a work shoe?
“Given the technological innovation, the prestige of the brand and the personalised marketing service we offer, our partners are fully aware that the cost of our sole cannot be compared with any other on the market. The Michelin sole is a distinctive and quality element for work footwear and commercially exploiting this type of product can be very profitable for partners. Even on footwear, the brand evokes in customers seeking safety and reliability the excellence and performance of a car equipped with Michelin tyres. The higher cost compared to other soles, after all, does not substantially affect the final price of the footwear.”
Ultimately, the Michelin technology can be considered a revolution in the Safety sector.
“We have certainly made a significant change in the way we do business and in our approach to solutions for our partners. We want to make a difference, for them and for the end consumer. We offer specific solutions for every need and numerous innovations in terms of technology, materials and technical solutions. Whether all this can be called a ‘revolution’ is not for us to say. Our aim is always to do something new, at our best, and, where possible, to be one step ahead.”
Ambrogio Merlo
Trained as a mechanical engineer, he began his career at Saint- Gobain, a French leader in the construction and industrial sectors. He subsequently held important leadership positions as Managing Director at several companies, including TVS (non-stick cookware), Alucapvit-Guala Group (aluminium caps), Vibram (shoe soles) and JAL Group (Safety Shoes) and General Manager of Candy in the Cooling sector. Since 2013, he has played a leading role in the JV International project, relying on his know-how and solid managerial experience.
